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A quick overview of how to replace burned out dash lights on a 2005 PT Criuser. There is a lot of plastic in this dash. Take your time and don’t break parts….Video Rating: 4 / 5
Tags: Cruiser, Dash, lights, Replacement
December 17, 2014 at 10:31 pm (UTC 0)
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Ok, this video was pretty good right up until the wooden block between the
pad and frame part. No wonder marpo split his dashpad if he followed this
ridiculous direction. The pad is held in place by 6 push-in clips, just
like the clips the lower panels have, 3 on both the driver and passenger
side of the pad at the front. To pry up on this pad and wedge it, or shim
it, is inviting breakage of these clips, and Id be surprised if this pad
has any left in tact. The dashpad needs to come OUT people!! It is a very
simple process actually.
The very first step in this job should be to remove the A-pillar trim on
each side of the dash, it runs vertically from the dash to the headliner,
by gently pulling away from the car starting at the top of the trim panel,
they are held in place by two push-in clips and will come out very easily.
Once all the other panels and screws have been removed (as shown in the
video), pull the pad TOWARDS YOU, NOT UP, and the pad will easily slide
out. Removal of the painted bezel, and then the instrument cluster itself,
will be a snap once this is removed. When replacing the bulbs themselves,
GO GENTLY, they are a 1/4 twist and turn to remove/install, and it is easy
to apply too much pressure and bugger up the bulb. Also, make sure and
check the lights to make sure they all work before putting it all back
together, I just did mine last night on my 2001, and two of my brand new
bulbs didnt work, good thing I bought extra. When replacing the pad, make
sure that the rubber trim on the back edge of the pad is installed securely
before putting it back in. And when installing the A-pillar trim, ensure
that the two tabs on the bottom of the trim, slide correctly into the slots
in the side of the pad, then push in place, and pull out any rubber
weatherstrip material that may get wedged between the trim and frame.
All in all, this is a very simple job to do, it just SEEMS daunting at
first. For the poster of this vid to leave out(or not even know) this
critical information, is just ridiculous, especially if he is a shop owner
I’ve seen many self help videos with critical bits of information either 1-
wrong, or 2- left out entirely. People need to post correct instructions
if they are going to try to help people out with these types of videos.
December 17, 2014 at 10:39 pm (UTC 0)
This video is helpful in general…but WAS NOT accurate enough for my work
on a 2001 PT Here are the important differences:.
1. The starting point is good, EXCEPT when the dash is lifted…a 2×4 is
way to much lifting…I used wooden shims and added one at a time until the
dash was raised about 1/2″…not 1-1/2″
2. No need to take the glove box out and all that on the right side so the
job is even faster.
3. The biggest difference, on the driver’s side pillar between the driver’s
door and the windshield….the plastic cover comes off (snapps, no screws)
and after removing the 1 screw holding the a/c & heater controls, and the 2
holding on the colored cover for the odometer, tach, fuel, temp gauges the
dash lifts EASILY UPWARD and out of the way.
4. Before the colored cover can be removed, the 2-piece cover over the
steering column (2 phillips head screws) must be removed…and …boom the
colored cover can be removed. From there, the 4 screws holding on the
instrument gauge panel (IGP) can be removed and then the IGP can be lifted
out and the back exposed to remove and reinsert the small #74 light bulbs.
5. I learned the hard way DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS WITH YOUR FINGERS. I did
it 3 times before I tried replacing the bulb WITHOUT TOUCHING THEM WITH MY
FINGERS (use nitrile gloves) and the bulbs worked!!!
6. I also learned that O’Rielly and Wal-Mart wanted $4.99 for 2
bulbs…NAPA wanted $0.99 each
7. Have fun. Take your time. you can do it.
December 17, 2014 at 10:58 pm (UTC 0)
This was very helpful as I am not a mechanic. I just finished replacing all
six bulbs and what do you know they all work. If you do with this you will
just have to work with it a little while to understand how it is put
together. There are pegs on both the center console that you have to slide
the plastic cover off of and then pull down a little. Same with the panel
to the left and right of the steering well up under the dashboard covering.
If you know they are there, no problem. If I hadn’t had this information I
might not have tried it. Took me about an hour and a half and that is
mostly because I didn’t know exactly what I was doing. Good luck!
December 17, 2014 at 11:28 pm (UTC 0)
My dashlights are out , gauges aren’t working, nor power locks on my ’06 pt
Cruiser. Battery is fine & fuses tested good. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
December 18, 2014 at 12:21 am (UTC 0)
My dashboard split from front to back in four places because I put the
block of wood underneath it like in this video. It wasn’t cold and brittle
either because I did it in the summer. Beware of that.
December 18, 2014 at 12:23 am (UTC 0)
Thank you SO MUCH for this informative video… it helped tremendously
December 18, 2014 at 12:48 am (UTC 0)
Thanks for your explanation!
December 18, 2014 at 1:15 am (UTC 0)
Don’t turn the cluster upside down~! Fluid dampened gauges can be ruined by
December 18, 2014 at 1:50 am (UTC 0)
Right. The air bag has it’s own circuit. It is only powered when the car is
on and can only be deployed when a impact sensor is compromised. No worry
December 18, 2014 at 2:15 am (UTC 0)
i’m sorry if this is a stupid question, when working around the steering
wheel like that even with the battery cable unplugged there is no way the
airbag would go off prematurely right?
December 18, 2014 at 2:58 am (UTC 0)
Yes, unfortunately almost all cars are like that. You have to remove half
the dash panel to access the bulbs. With older Mercedes 1980s-2000s the
instrument cluster can be pull out by itself (with a special tool) without
removing any trim or panels.
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